Rainwater National Park Tour 2020
23 days
342 gallons of gas
6,845 miles
8 National Parks
Countless stars, memories, and smiles.
The memoir below incorporates the details of our trip. However, here is a glimpse of our stops in order from east to west then back if you just want the snapshot…
Great Smoky Mountain National Park
Badlands
Mt Rushmore
Glacier National Park
Yellowstone
Grand Tetons
Rocky Mountain National Park
Gateway Arch
I started this blog to offer our plans and helpful tips. However, as I began to recount our adventure, the memories came to life, and I decided to share it all, more of a memoir than a blog. I pray this helps you dream and plan your own adventure as you adventure with us through the words below.
ADVENTURE AWAITS
We hear, and maybe even repeat sayings in our culture...
"When life gives you lemons, made lemonade."
"YOLO"
"Adventure awaits.”
And so on. But are they catch phrases alone or do we choose to incorporate their principles into our life?
Coronavirus hit the world and changed everything. We were forced to make choices. While some saw challenge, our family decided to focus on the positive and the opportunity. It took constant effort. It took reevaluation. It still does, but I am excited to share a piece of what this looked like for the Rainwaters.
ORIGINAL PLAN
Back in 2019, I helped my parents plan a family getaway for them, my sister's family, and our family. We looked into doing a cruise or Disney or a vacation to the mountains. We decided the best choice was to try and pull that all together into one with a trip to the Great Smoky Mountains, incorporating the Dollywood Theme Park and Splash Country Waterpark.
If you know me, you know that I am a planner. I love spreadsheets. I instantly opened up a Google Excel doc and got to work planning the perfect big family vacation that my father was affectionately referring to as his "Last Hoorah!" I am excited to share my initial spreadsheet, as well as the fact that we are hoping to plan the next Last Hoorah in another few years. But for now, there is more...
CHANGE OF PLANS
One week before we left for TN, my husband Mark and I found ourselves driving home from Florida where we had just said our final goodbyes to his dad. After a long battle with kidney failure and COPD, and even making it through COVID-19, the Lord saw fit to call him home just a few days later.
Due to the pandemic, he passed alone in a hospital, and the emotions surround everything going on all seemed raw. As we drove, life seemed short. The worries of the world around us faded over the importance of taking life by the horns. Due to the situation, it was last minute that we even made the trip to FL, and the day we left happened to be on the same day of an all day conference I had already registered and paid for. Thanks to technology I was able to work on the drive.
This new experience was like a light bulb going off in my head from what it means to work remotely. Our six hour drive home the very next day, gave room for lots of conversation, but we suddenly found ourselves dreaming into reality a bucket list trip that we had talked about for years. Instead of heading in the direction of all the reasons... excuses, why we couldn't or shouldn't it do in now, the more real it became that that very cycle often kills our dreams. We chose to change the conversations from "why we couldn't" to "how can we make it happen". The more we talked it out, the more possible it seemed.
For the rest of our drive home from FL and over the next few days, we started planning. Of course, another Google Excel was started to help with the fluid plans. Just one week after that car drive home from FL, we were headed out… but this time across the country. Adventure was waiting...
As I share with you the details of the trip below, I also want to encourage you to put in some thought for your personal family situation. Due to our family size and the short notice, I chose specific hotels. However, you may find a better option for your family with just a little work. What you put in is what you will get out. The biggest resources as I planned were Google Maps for the trip itinerary and hotels, hotels.com, trip advisor, and blogs... many blogs. I would Google phrases like "Grand Tetons with Kids" and appropriate activities would come up. Be specific as you make this trip a reality.
LOGISTICS AND TIME/MONEY SAVING TIPS:
One specific requirement I had as I booked hotels was free breakfast. With a family our size, it adds up! And it's so convenient and usually quick. Due to Coronavirus, there were modifications, but it all worked out. When booking, I also asked for discounts. Everything from retired military to hotel membership helped save some money. I would cross check hotel websites with hotels.com and google and also call asking for those discounts as well as the “best available rate.”
Once plans were made, we started thinking supplies and packing. Our family does not even own enough clothes to make it as long as we would be gone. We did laundry in one hotel and then chose to find a Laundromat with a Wash and Fold service for another round. Time is money, and we had limited time in each park. We chose that as a better use of our time to drop it off one morning and pick it up the next.
One way we saved lots of money was by eating peanut butter and jelly sandwiches at least once per day. We packed a large cooler and also a picnic cooler. We would keep food supplies in the main cooler to include peanut butter, jelly, bread, water, juice boxes, granola bars, microwave popcorn, fruit, veggie tray, and treats like fruit snacks to give to the kids as a reward for hikes without whining. We also included all sizes of baggies, foil, plasticware, and paper products. Every night we would make PB & J for the next day's lunches. We did have to make several grocery store runs on our trip to last the entire trip and keep fruit and veggies fresh.
Many of the National Parks have fees. However, there are various ways to save money or make these free. There are several free days parks offer to the general public. Additionally, free or discounted passes are available too. Click here for more info and to see what works best for you and your family.
There was still a little more prep. We purchased journals (super cheap 4 pack) and gave it as a present to each of our children to write, draw, and capture this trip and all the memories. It was a great activity during long car rides (plan on a few things to help with those). All the drive time I share in the details do not include stops. Be sure to consider food breaks, restroom breaks, traffic, etc as you plan.
We had a separate pool bag with bathing suits and towels that we kept in the car as you never know when you would come up to a creek or lake. A few more things we always kept in the car (or wish we had): picnic blanket, sweaters, water shoes, sunscreen, bug spray, good (not cheap) binoculars, bear spray, a pair of camp chairs, sunglasses, napkins, water, snacks, etc.
Click here to view my spreadsheet of the extended trip.
AND WE’RE OFF…
GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK
Sunday morning we packed up the car, our four kids, and left for the Smoky Mountains. My parents rented a cabin in Gatlinburg, TN for all of us. I usually use Patriot Getaways and filter a cabin with a view as well as a hot tub and game room. I prefer the Wears Valley area and like being off the bypass for easy access to both Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg. Other things may be important to you and your family, so be specific to get exactly what you want.
One of the highlights of our trip was getting to see family of Black Bears... the Mama and her three cubs. She stopped by multiple days looking for trash. We got to view her from the safety of our cabin deck.
The week included several visits to Dollywood Theme Park and Splash Country. Due to Coronavirus restrictions, advanced reservations were required. While this was inconvenient, it also meant no lines! What fun we had as those parks!
Most mornings consisted of breakfast at the cabin, but we did go out to my personal fav once – Crockett’s Breakfast Camp. There are lots of restaurants in this area, so use Trip Advisor, Google, or Yelp to find what’s good when you go. On other trips, we have also enjoyed walking through the downtown area of Gatlinburg, but due to COVID and other plans, we passed on that for this trip, but I would recommend it if you have never been.
The other fun we had was in Great Smokey Mountain National Park. We did a picnic at Chimney Tops Picnic Area. It had tables and restrooms and was aside a creek. After lunch, we all loved climbing on the rocks and enjoying the water.
Due to the various ages on our trip (from 3 to 72), we did not do any hiking, but it would have been a great day for it. The other thing we did was drove the road in GSMNP to Clingman’s Dome. We stopped at several overlooks on the way up as well. Another spot we didn’t get to go to on this trip but I would recommend is Cades Cove. You will often get to see wildlife there early in the morning or at dusk. The park is a beautiful, natured filled area waiting to be explored.
THE DRIVE
After the Smokies, we headed west and drove approximately 12 hours to Kansas City, MO. For the kids, our long drives were filled with movies, journaling, music, snacks, and Mom and Dad yelling, “Kids look at ___ out the window!” For Mark and I, car rides where filled with conversation, work using our laptops via the hotspots on our phone as well as many phone conversations, naps, and sightseeing. Whenever we had to stop for the rest room, every person had to go no questions asked (time saver). Also, as you get further west, avoid letting your car get low on gas. Exits and options get further and further apart. Cell reception gets sketchy. Plan accordingly for all of this, stopping often for restrooms and gas as well as having your maps downloaded or printed.
The next morning, we were back in the car bright and early. We found the drives went much better the earlier we got out. Mind you, I am not a morning person, but you gotta do what you gotta do. Once we were on the road we discovered that we were able to make a change in our plans based on specifics that we wanted. I will share those in a moment but I say that as a stand alone sentence for two reasons. First, choose to be flexible if you see a better opportunity available. Second, have a plan A and a plan B, because sometimes things go better than you expect and other times, not so much.
As I was researching via blogs and travel sites I noted that several people said the sunset at the Badlands was a must see as was the night program at Mt Rushmore. We planned three nights in this area… one night for arrival, one night for Badlands, and one for Mt Rushmore. Once we were on the road and saw what great time we were making (shocker!), we realized we would see the sunset at the Badlands if we drove straight there not stopping at the hotel first. Driving west also allowed us to take advantage of the time changes each day. (Note that you need to consider that as you head back east and lose time as you cross each time zone.) This allowed us to cancel the third night at the booked hotel and then split the 12 hour drive from that area to Glacier into two days. Whew! So happy we were thinking ahead and flexible.
I should also note that if I did this again, I would stay in Wall, SD for Badlands and Rapid City or even closer to Mt Rushmore the second night. We chose a hotel in Rapid City as it was in the middle, but we really needed a driving break by then. It’s a hard choice because it’s either time in the car, or time packing and unpacking the car again. The best choice is whatever you prefer. With that said, many nights we would have two small bags… a toiletry bag and a clothes bag for PJs and next day outfits and leave all the big suitcases in the car. With planning, this makes it easier to pop in and out of hotels that you are only staying at for one night.
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| Quick Stop at Wall Drug... It's the thing to do. |
BADLANDS
After 10.5 hours of drive time (not including stops), we found ourselves yelling with excitement as we saw prairie dogs popping out of the ground at the entrance to the Badlands.
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| Prairie Dogs |
We handed in Daniel’s paperwork for his free 4th Grade Pass, and they gave him a card that became our golden ticket for the rest of this trip. They also gave us Junior Ranger Books that we got at every park after this as well. Kids can complete them and earn badges.
We were so excited and didn’t know what to tackle first. We knew we wanted to see the sunset from Pinnacles Overlook (you could often find me googling “best sunset at ____ National Park” as sunsets are my fav!), so we didn’t want to go far from there. I also quickly discovered how fascinating my husband found wildlife. So off we went down Sage Creek Rd. Next thing you know, we saw Big Horn Sheep.
The week before we left I was talking with a friend about the trip, and he was giving a few suggestions. He said we must have good binoculars. I started looking on Amazon and sharing brands and reviews and he asked, “How much?” I answered, “$35.” “Nope, higher,” he responded. “Here is a good pair - $75.” Again he responded, “Nope, higher.” He insisted on binoculars at least $300. I almost fell out of my chair and explained we would be surviving on Peanut Butter and Jelly for this trip… not in the budget. Thankfully, he lent us his. I say all that to say I understand you may raise your eyebrows or blow me off when I tell you to get GOOD, expensive binoculars, but I promise you that your trip will not be with same without them. While sometimes wildlife is close, more often it is at a distance. Through good binoculars you will not only feel like you are right there, but the details of each animal become crisp.
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| The Binoculars |
We continued to enjoy various animals and then headed back for a PB&J picnic dinner with a million-dollar view. Pinnacles Overlook did not disappoint.
While researching I discovered that Badlands offer a Night Sky Program on stars and constellations thanks to the amazing Park Rangers. We headed to the amphitheater at Cedar Pass Campground. It was a perfect drive along the Badlands Loop Road to get a better feel of the park and truly enjoy great views and landscapes. We learned so much, and it was stunning.
A pro and con was that we had a full moon. It was bright and beautiful; however, it prevented us from seeing the band of the Milky Way. I was disappointed but stay tuned or more on that.
After our 10+ hour drive, wildlife viewing, sunset soaking, constellation observing day, all the kids fell asleep in the car for long drive back to the hotel to check in and crash. But, it was worth every minute!
The next day we were back at the Badlands. We started with our first hike of the trip along the Fossil Exhibit Trail. It was short and easy. The kids conquered it.
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I figured, heck, let’s go for something more advanced, and headed to Notch Trail. Bad choice. I learned a lot on this trip, so learn from me…
Pace yourself! Consider the times of day. Think things through.
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| Cactus |
As we began the trail we quickly discovered that there was no shade, and it was getting hotter and hotter. At this point things were still going well. Then there was the ladder… this one way object that started with a soft incline but you quickly realized how straight and high it goes. People were coming down the ladder, so we rested, in the heat, and waited at the bottom along with the others coming down the trail for our turn to climb up. We decided to go behind the kids just in case there was an issue. I snapped a few pictures and then joined them on the climb.
This ladder was made of wood. While attached at the top and bottom, it was loose in the middle making it feel rocky. About ¾ of the way up, Haley began realizing that the higher you went the hotter each rung was. By then Daniel not only discovered that as well, but it caused him to become very aware of his surroundings. Next thing you know he was hysterical wanting to get down. The problem was that we had about a dozen people already climbing the ladder behind us. There was no where to go but up.
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| The Ladder |
We started with encouragements… You can do this, Bud! You’re almost there! Then, we switched to being realistic… Daniel, your hands are hot because you are not moving. Keep going up the ladder, and it will minimize the heat on your hand. He wasn’t buying it. Everyone was waiting, and Mark and I were at a loss. So then came the threats… If you ever want to see your Xbox again, get up this ladder. Motivation is a special thing. Up he went.
At that point, he was traumatized by the heat, the height, and we felt it best to let him recompose himself. Mark went on with Haley and Zach to the overlook and goal of the hike. Daniel and I found a nook in the side of the mountain we were now on that provided just enough shade due to the location of the sun for us to crawl into little balls and wait for them to finish the hike.
Daniel and I had a heart to heart. It consisted of two things: him yelling at me that we will never do anything like this ever again, and me reminding him that he conquered his fear, the ladder, and the mountain, and that because of that, he will do even greater things. I shared stories of my fears as a little girl. I shared the need to shift my focus from my abilities from what I could do in my strength to what can happen when we shift to depending on God’s strength and courage. He didn’t seem to hear any of it.
We sat there getting hotter and hotter. When I get hot, my face turns red. Not pink, red! Several kind people stopped to see if we were okay or needed water (Note: bring water on all hikes moving forward). One lady insisted I was turning purple. Lol
Soon after Mark and the gang got back. Turns out that Haley felt dehydrated and Zach threw up. They got to see the view, but Mark and I we wondering what we had gotten ourselves into. With lots of whining and sweating we coached our kids back down the wobbly ladder and through the trail back to the car. We were hot and thirsty and tired.
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| Red or Purple? You decide! lol |
After quite some time, we cooled down. We reassessed. We evaluated. We learned. We noted. We were ready to keep going and do it better and wiser. We drove a bit more through the Badlands and then started to make our way to Mt Rushmore with a food stop on the way.
Sometimes we put a period where there is really a comma. I wasn’t sure if that hiked ruined the rest of our trip plans or if Daniel was going to have a permanent scarring from what we went through. As we made the drive, I suddenly heard Daniel sharing his excitement with Haley and Zach about our next adventures. He said now that we conquered that ladder and that hike, we could do anything. He reminded them that we just needed to rely on God’s strength.
Tears. Tears at that moment and tears now as I remember it. While this blog would certainly be shorter to simply offer an itinerary, I would be remiss to not share more. Not every moment of this trip will not go as planned. There will be challenges, and there will be mistakes.
Don’t write them off.
Embrace them.
Learn from them and treasure the lessons learned from them.
You will leave with memories and pictures, but more than that, you will leave with wisdom and character whose benefits will reap a lifetime. Take the good with the bad, and enjoy every moment of it.
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| Yellow Mounds at The Badlands |
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| Braver than before |
MT. RUSHMORE
About 1.5 hours from the Badlands, we arrived at Mt Rushmore. We were ready to meet these guys! I found it best if we snapped a few pictures upon arrival at a new place and then put the camera away to be present.
We captured those, looked around and then started to head down to a presentation area to hear the Park Rangers share the story behind this monument. As we walked down the first flight of stairs, Haley took a tumble. This day was taking a life of its own. We rested for a few minutes. We offered her water (remember that previous note about bringing water everywhere), but didn’t have napkins or band aides to stop the bleeding (Note: bring napkins and band aides everywhere too). Mark went to get supplies while I sat with Haley girl. We eventually made it down and enjoyed the story of how this mostly came to be after almost not. There was a hike around the base, but we knew it wouldn’t work with our newest injury. I helped Haley back up the stairs to the upper viewing area, and Mark took the boys on the hike They got to see the alternate angle as well as learned lots of interested facts along the trail.
After that we went to the shop to try Thomas Jefferson’s original recipe for ice cream. Yum!
We then got what we thought were great seats for the night program, but soon found out changes were made due to COVID-19. We did enjoy it the alternate program from the flags, but apparently the normal show in the outdoor amphitheater is amazing.
Overall, we enjoyed our day and learned so much!
DIVINE APPOINMENT
As mentioned previously, we were able to modify our travel plans. Little did we know that God had more than we were planning ourselves. We woke up the next morning and had an 8 hour drive set to Butte, MT. Just as it started to rain, we finished loading up the car and jumped on the interstate up the road from the hotel. Just minutes into our drive we saw a woman walking, in the rain, down the side of the interstate. Now listen, if we stopped for every person we saw we would never have been able to complete this trip. However, we have also learned that when the Lord prompts you to act, it is best to obey. Mark and I looked at each other and knew we needed to go back and offer her a ride. We figured it was a small town in the middle of nowhere… how long could this detour last.
We got off the next exit, took a road back to the previous entrance where we started, and then pulled over as we approached her. To make her more comfortable, Mark got her a towel and went to sit in the back with the kids, so she could have the front seat. I jumped in the driver’s seat to take the wheel. As she got in the car, I noticed the white hospital band dangling on her wrist and started to wonder what we had just gotten ourselves into. However, I also know that I can trust God, and He always has a plan for our good and His glory.
I introduced myself and our family found out her name was Jenny. I asked where we could take her and her answered surprised me and left me with more questions than answers, “As far north as you are willing,” she answered. We were heading northeast that day. I pulled up my Google Map and gave her several options but specifically pointed out the furthest point north on our journey, and we agreed that was our parting place. Off we went.
It felt awkward. I expected to drop her off at her home or a place of employment. I knew there was more to this story, but I also knew I could offer her a Story that would be life changing for now and eternity. I've learned that the right to be heard is something that needs to be earned, and it often stats by listening. I asked her to tell me her story.
Remember back when we were all little, we would dream. We would picture our future. However, none of us pictured life with the challenges, with the bad parts. Those come for every one of us. We are unprepared. But by the grace of God, some of us get through with less scarring than others. She, however, went from a husband, and a son, and a career to broken, homeless, and scarred. Jenny needed hope, and more than a ride, hope was what we could offer. I was grateful to have the opportunity to share that Jesus offers us life abundant. That while He does not offer life to be easy, He does offer to be with us through it. And most importantly, he offers us life after death with salvation through His Son, Jesus. I asked Jenny what changes she wanted to make between now and the future that she sees to set her life in a different direction. I talked more to God in my head through prayer as we drove and mostly listened to her. I asked her if I could find her a shelter in the town we chose so she could find a place for the night, but she declined. I then asked if I could find a local church that could help find her a resources and she agreed. We made the connection and went to drop her off there. I felt prompted to pray over her but then started questioning it. Just at that very moment, she turned to me and ask if I would pray over her. It was tear filled and beautiful.
We set out on this trip to connect with our Creator, but what a blessing to help someone else do the same. I reached into my glove compartment to get the Bible that I kept in there. I offered it to Jenny as a parting gift, and we said our goodbyes.
Many years ago a mentor of mine shared that every morning she would ask what does God have for me today that is not already on my schedule. Such a good value to live by.
Our drive continued, stopping for dinner in Bozeman. It was perfect. Of course, we ate PB&J on the road at lunch. The next morning we drove 4 hours from Butte to one of the most stunning places my eyes have ever seen - Glacier National Park.
GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
We got into GNP and started driving Going to the Sun Road. We stopped at an overlook or two before deciding that Red Rocks was the perfect dinner spot. In addition to the river, there was a small waterfall and a pool with a cliff where others were jumping off. We decided to move off the path and climb down some rocks for a riverside picnic. We planned on coming back for the cliff jumping, but somehow the kids won that battle and we wound up with lake swimming instead of back at Red Rocks.
(Note: These parks have so much. Take advantage of everything you can in the moment as you may not make it back to that spot.)
After dinner, we found another spot perfect for skipping rocks. Glacier has the most beautiful crystal clear water. It is cold, but so inviting and refreshing. In the water, the rocks are a variety of colors that seem to illuminate the beauty.
We finished our evening with a sunset at Lake McDonald, skipping rocks and soaking up the views.
The next morning we drove Going to the Sun Road. Driving this road and stopping at the overlooks is not only beautiful, but it also give such a great overview of the park. Make sure it is on your to do list. I will give a heads up that this road is h i g h. Driving it can be breathtaking for a variety of reasons.
Our first full stop was at Logan Pass. We planned on hiking to Hidden Lake. Our original goal was to hike Grinnell, but it was closed thanks to COVID-19. Honestly a blessing in disguise because my overly optimistic plan would have been too much on the fam given the previous hike results. However, upon arrival at Logas’ Pass we discovered our planned hike to Hidden Lake was also cancelled thanks to an aggressive grizzly bear who was also “hiking” that trail while we were there.
So, I asked a Ranger. Kudos to all the National Park Rangers. Talk to them while you are there. They are helpful, friendly, and in the know. They suggested Trail of the Cedars to Avalanche Lake, but warned that it would be crowded, and also recommend St Mary’s Falls. Mark is not a fan of crowds, and then there was COVID-19, so we passed on Trail of the Cedars. I somewhat regret that after seeing awesome pictures from friends of mine who were there just days later and hiked that trail. It looks beautiful! However, we truly enjoyed our hike to St Mary Falls… wildflowers, streams, and a reward of one of the most beautiful waterfalls I have seen. This hike was longer than the one in the Badlands, but the weather was cooler and no questionable ladders were involved. We had to push ourselves to get there and back, but it was so worth it.
We then enjoyed yet another PB &J lunch with million-dollar views at Lake St Mary. I highly recommend this very spot, and I am sure this picture explains why. A Park Ranger stopped by to say hello while we were there and asked if we had any questions. That is a dangerous question to ask Daniel. He will have a list and then some. The Ranger was so patient and helpful!
As the day went on, we headed back to a lake for a swim and stopped by a snow field. At the time I thought it was a glacier. I later learned the difference. I could write an additional blog on that, but I will spare you and tell you the two takeaways I learned… they often have a gray hue to them and also form U shaped canyon (not V shaped) as the whole glacier moves.
Lake swims are always a perfect choice for afternoon… you are hot from the morning hike, landmarks are crowded, and it’s the perfect refreshment needed.
We ate dinner in the adorable Apgar Village in Glacier and also got Huckleberry Ice Cream. So, huckleberries are a big thing in these areas. I would recommend the ice cream and jam as well as the pie. Mmmmm!
We decided to head back up the mountain one more time for the sunset and stargazing, and I am SO happy we did. Wildlife often emerges at dawn and dusk. We saw so many animals that evening, especially around Logan Pass. If you ever wonder what happens to the animals when the people leave the park, we now know…
Due to yet another very bright moon, stargazing was pretty, but not what we were dreaming. Definitely consider these things when planning. #liveandlearn
The next morning was Haley’s birthday. We went Whitewater Rafting to celebrate. Upon arrival and meeting our guides, I noticed one of them chatting with me had a Gamecocks shirt on. I made a comment and she shared that she plays softball there. I immediately asked her if she knew one of Hanahan’s residents that also plays there. Yes! What a fun connection and excitement to start the trip. #smallworld
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The kids absolutely loved it! As did Mark and I. Daniel fell into the boat (I caught him) once (just happy he didn’t fall out), and Haley cried after one set of rapids (not hurt, just new experiences can be scary).
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| Notice me catching Daniel |
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| Got you, Buddy! Never going to let you go! |
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| JOY! |
That night we went into the town of Kalispell for a birthday dinner at Desoto Grill. So good!
| Happy 9th Birthday, Haley! |
YELLOWSTONE
The next morning we packed the car back up and drove 6 hours to Yellowstone National Park. This park is h u g e! It was also the most crowded. We actually chose to wear our masks outside at this park during high trafficked landmarks and times. The main road in the park looks like a figure 8. You will need enough time to explore them all.
As we drove in we stopped at the Fountain Paint Pot on our way to the two things I personally wanted to see most – Old Faithful and Grand Prismatic Spring. It was a perfect first stop for us as we got to experience many of the geothermal features of the park right there. I would highly recommend it as a first stop if possible. There we also saw our first geyser release. We didn’t find out later that seeing that is not so easy. What a blessing!
Our next stop was at the Midway Geyser Basin, location of the famous Grand Prismatic Spring. This is a must see IMO. I have been informed that the best time to see this is midday to afternoon. The morning has too much fog and there is not enough sun in the evening for the full reflection of colors. Due to COVID and crowds, we chose to go in the evening. Slightly disappointed, but a best choice for our trip. However, if you are reading this in the post Coronavirus future, go midday. And be sure to absorb ALL the amazing sites at this basin… just beautiful!
Our final stop for the evening was Old Faithful. There is an app you will want to download and update prediction times before you get in the park. As with most national parks, there is little to no reception. We didn’t know this at the time, but just so happened to arrive just minutes before good Old Faithful’s next eruption. We made our way to the viewing area and took a seat. Just minutes later – whoosh! Just seconds after the water spouted higher into the air, we witnessed a shooting star blaze across the sky over the geyser. Breathtaking! Simply breathtaking.
As mentioned, this park is huge! So it took some time to get back to our hotel, the Three Bears Lodge. Definitely not 5 star accomodations, but the location and their inclusive breakfast in their restaurant was better than any other we had. I truly wish we could have stayed in the park and would recommend this for all parks, but especially Yellowstone due to its size.
The next day we woke up to enjoy our amazing free breakfast and headed into the park focusing on the top circle of the figure eight. Our first stop was the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. On our way, we pulled off at Virginia Cascade to enjoy the falls on the way. So pretty and no hiking needed.
The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone was beautiful. There are several viewing areas. Be sure to include the falls their as you enjoy.
We decided to do PB & J for dinner on this day, so we came out of the park to the town of Gardiner for lunch. There are several options, and it’s right at the edge of the park. After that we headed for Lamar Valley. We were right by Mammoth Springs. Our plan was skip Mammoth Springs at that moment and do it on the way back. Unfortunately, our obsession with wildlife and the size of this park caused us to get to Mammoth at dusk, and we barely got to see it. As I have mentioned before… if you are somewhere, do it then. Don’t expect to come back.
As we approached Lamar Valley, we started to see wildlife… Elk, Proghorn, a bison, and from the safety of our car, we even saw a Grizzly Bear right at the side of the road. As we continued our long, far journey to the valley, we saw a handful of Bison. We were all so excited. We pulled over and got out of the car. We were taking turns with our awesome binoculars and all astonished at the size of this thing. Just then some guy mentioned to us that if we just drove a bit down the road there would be hundreds of them. He was not kidding. They were everywhere! And it was mating season. It was crazy, interesting, and educational as well as entertaining to see the different behaviors. We enjoyed a sunset drive on our way back to the hotel (over 2 hours from the spot we were at) with a quick 10 minute stop at Mammoth Springs to get a hint of what it was like there.
For our final day, we went exploring on the bottom circle of the figure 8. We started with the Artist Paint Pots, then the Mud Volcano. This is where this blog will do this experience no justice. You must experience these with all your senses (except taste, of course LOL). You need to feel the heat emanating from the ground, hear the different speed and pops of the bubbling, and smell the sulfur.
From here we headed to Yellowstone Lake. Mark and I felt we were in a completely different park. Nothing was exploding. Just pretty view and landscapes. So pretty and relaxing.
Next we went back to the Grand Prismatic Spring. The first evening we saw it on premise. On this day, we did the hike at Fairy Falls to get the overlook view. It was a great hike and worth the view.
After the hike, we had worked up an appetite, and we were ready for our PB & J and our million-dollar view. While looking for a random picninc area, we wound up going to Firehole Lake Dr. What a blessing that the Lord directed us there. We got to see the sunset… times two. The Great Fountain Geyser offers a reflection of the sky. Wow!
We did not get to see it erupt while we were there (we did go during the predicted eruption time), but from our spot there, we did get to see Castle Geyser erupt since it was just up the road a bit.
GRAND TETON
Grand Teton National Park borders Yellowstone National Park on the south. We drove right through the YNP and entered the Tetons. It was love at first sight.
Most mountain ranges we experienced were just that. However, the Tetons are so different. Each one is very distinct. The other thing I loved is that you can be right up under one of these mountains and truly feel its majesty.
About two days before arriving here we decided that we thought we would enjoy Rocky Mountain National Park more than the Tetons. We cancelled one of our two nights there and added a third night in the Rockies. What a mistake! The Tetons wound up being one of our favorites. The joy I find in this mistakes is that it gives us a great excuse to go back. Check out the following picture and you won’t blame me. It is one of my absolute favorites of the whole trip…
The road into Grand Teton looks like an upside down Q. Since we were coming in on the line, we decided to spend the time in that area and do the loop the next day. We headed to Jackson Lake via Colter Bay Village.
We did some souvenir shopping at every National Park stop. We usually collect magnets and/or Christmas ornaments from most destinations we travel to. This trip was no different, but I also decided to get a sticker from each one as well. After that, we did our first hike, Lakeshore Trail. It was a relatively easy hike (or we were just getting better at hiking by now lol), it smelled like Christmas (love that part), had some amazing views and water play.
By now we had our tradition down pat… hike followed by a lake swim. We headed to String Lake. The kids had a blast and so did we. We saw others with Stand Up Paddle boards and even some kayaks. Looked like so much fun. I would highly consider a blow up SUP for our next visit there.
After that, we drove over to an area that we heard we could find wildlife, but we didn’t come across any. So, we headed into Jackson, aka Jackson Hole where we were spending the night. I was already regretting our limited time at Grand Teton already, but after the evening in Jackson Hole, I really was. It has the cutest little town with wonderful restaurants, boutiques, and is very walkable. We ate at Liberty Burger. Both Mark and I will tell you that it was one of our favorite meals on the trip.
We walked to the town square and loved the antler arch. And had it not been so late at night by now, I probably would have just walked to our hotel.
The next day, we got into the park earlier than we usually did and headed for the Boat Ride at Jenny Lake. If you have a larger family like us, check into the family pass as that may save you a few dollars. We enjoyed a lovely boat ride across the lake to our hike starting point for the day. Our plan was to hike to Hidden Falls, then continue the hike to Inspiration Point. Daniel was overly optimistic, and was hoping to go beyond that into Cascade Canyon.
I’m not sure if it was the incline or the fact that we had spent days and days hiking, but the kids were really struggling on this particular hike. After that doozy in the Badlands, the kids had actually been doing really well on all our hikes, so we were surprised. After several breaks and a bit of encouragement, we made it to the beautiful waterfalls.
It was so refreshing. You could feel the breeze cooler from the brush against the water before rushing by us. We spent a bit of time here before continuing the steep ascent to Inspiration Point. There we small ledges to climb and steep drops, but as we approached the first landing, it was great.
After a picture with Haley, we saw Zach, completely exhausted, lying on a large rock. He was about as inspired as he could be and was done with this hike. I offered to stay with him to let Mark and the other two finish it out, but the more we thoughts about it, we decided against it.
We started heading back down. The true battle of these hikes is not distance or incline, it’s attitude and character. It’s a process, and we knew our kids would be better after the trip than they started, but it would take practice and time. Zach was not adjusting his attitude which was making this a long hard hike back down. However, my mama heart became full when I turned around to see this…
Daniel decided to carry him. He didn’t have to go far, and Zach suddenly was ready to finish it out. Sometimes, when someone picks us up from a desperate point, that love and care can give us the strength we need to keep going. <3
After our boat ride back across Jenny Lake, we wanted to go to one more spot. As we drove there, we passed a field of horses. Haley about cried she was so happy and excited. We pulled over to allow her to look and pet them if they allowed. It was amazing to see both the horses and my daughter soak up the moment.
We then continued to our final stop (for this trip ;-) ) in the Tetons, Schwabacher’s Landing. Just as we arrived, it started to rain. We waited it out then enjoyed a walk in the water and amazing views.
After that we said goodbye, for now, to GTNP and drove 7 hours south to arrive in Rocky Mountain National Park late that night.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK
When searching for lodging, we discovered the YMCA in Estes Park. They had an amazing deal for active and retired military ($91 per night including breakfast, lunch and dinner - God bless you, YMCA!). This was a God send for a variety of reasons… RMNP has a reservation system due to COVID-19. When I was researching, it appeared that as long as you booked 24-48 hours in advance, you could get tickets to go into the park. Well, a park or two into our trip, I went online to book our tickets, and they were sold out! Y’all, we just traveled across the country! We were so close! But it appeared that we wouldn’t get into the park. After more research, I found out that the park held aside a certain number of tickets that were released at 8 am mountain time 48 hours before the day you wanted to go. So, I set an alarm and had my laptop and my phone ready to hit the button at the exact time needed. I wasn’t taking any chances. When that exact moment rolled around, I hit the button and it said processing… seconds later it was still processing. Surely it would work, right? Nope! No tickets! I was so upset. I felt like I missed a beat, and I much prefer getting things right the first time. I had to remind myself to trust God, His timing and His will. We got to the YMCA after midnight, so when we woke up the next morning, this amazing resort was visible. It has everything… mini golf, swimming pool, arts and crafts center, horseback riding, various sports, and more. And it is located in Estes Park, right at the edge of the RMNP… the two properties border each other. It was perfect.
I found out that morning that reservations were only needed until 5 pm, so we could actually get into the park after that. Whew! Everything was falling into place. After breakfast, we enjoyed a swim at the pool and then a round of mini golf. After lunch, we went into the adorable town of Estes Park. We walked over to the Riverwalk and the kids really enjoyed it. I will confess I love this stuff too… I immediately go into Mayor Mode and staying taking notes and taking pictures. After some souvenir shopping, we went back to the YMCA for dinner before driving into Rocky Mountain National Park. Our plan was to go to Bear Lake and hike to Dream Lake. The kids were requesting (more like begging) to not hike. With 6 National Parks and various hikes under our belt, we could see they were needing a break. As I often did, I asked a local where the best sunset in the park was and she said Forest Canyon. We decided to drive Trail Ridge, enjoy the overlooks, and enjoy a relaxing sunset.
The drive was great. The views were wonderful. And we even say some wildlife.
I am grateful we had pants and jackets for the sunset.
After sunset, we drove a little higher up the road and saw Elk and Yellow Bellied Marmot.
The next morning had more resort fun…
Then we had Haley’s birthday gift. Haley has really taken a liking to horses over the past years or so. This year, one of her birthday gifts was a trail rides in the Rockies. Today was the day. Mark was staying behind, but Daniel, Haley, Zach and myself saddled up for a two hours trail ride in Moraine Park in Rocky Mountain National Park.
What an experience to be in the Rockies on horseback. However, it didn’t come without challenges as well. Daniel had never been on a horse and was a bit nervous. The gave him and old calm horse. The only problem was that Bubba the horse was stubborn! This horse would avoid the rocky trail and try to ride the tree line. Poor Daniel could not seem to control him enough and wound up battling some branches along the ride. At one point, Bubba scooted right under a large tree, lining Daniel up for a largebranch to the face. This resulted in a bloody nose and face scratches. Poor kid! I was so proud… he stayed on his horse, composed himself and back on the trail we went.
That was until our second issue. Early on in the trail ride, the lead Wrangler’s horse got spooked and tried to throw her. She stayed on, got control, and we were back at it. We were almost back to the stables and it happened again. But this time, Haley’s horse, Tarzan (or Tanzar as Haley liked to call it) got spooked as well and took off for the woods. Suddenly the horse stopped. I thought Haley had gotten control, but she said she didn’t do a thing. Thanking God for His protection in this moment. She cried for a few minutes, but after a Wrangler walking with her for 2-3 minutes and a little encouragement, she was riding like pro.
The trail ride was beautiful and worth the experiences, good and bad.
We got back late and were quite tired. We planned on going back into RMNP, but with a 14 hour drive ahead of us the next day, we decided that we had enough fun in the Rockies for now.
THE GATEWAY ARCH NATIONAL PARK
After a loooonnnnnggggg drive, we made it to St Louis. We stayed a hotel that was right next to the Arch. It was beautiful to see in the evening upon arrival. This park too required a reservation due to COVID-19, which we had. The next morning after breakfast, we walked right over. It was so hot, so I was beyond grateful that a large majority of this experience indoors and air conditioned.
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The Park Rangers were fabulous there as well. The ride to the top was closed (ugh!), but we still enjoyed all we got to see.
After a few hours, we got back on the road to head home. We stopped for lunch in Nashville to introduce the kids to Music City since we were passing through.
We then went to Mark’s brother's house for stay the night. Bruce does such a great job of pouring himself and Jesus into my kids. I am so grateful we had some time with him on multiple legs of this trip.
We made it to Hanahan just 45 minutes before I chaired our City Council Meeting – whew! Just minutes from our house we saw a rainbow that seemed to end right at our home sweet home.
RECAP
This trip was invigorating, inspiring, connecting, and full of life. Many of us have Bucket Lists in life. I am so grateful we had this opportunity to do it and would recommend it to all, young and old. It may not be easy, but it will 100% be worth it!
Feel free to ask specific questions in the comments, and I will try and answer them. Or share your own stories in the comments as I would love to hear them.
For the pictures and videos, click here: https://youtu.be/2jJOoh-EKkg
